Early Cameras

Designs for early cameras in the 1800's were first built from wood with brass fixings, wood had the advantage over metal as it was lighter and the camera could be made larger, giving the photographer more movement for their work. The wood was also used as it dampened vibration, which could leave the picture blurred. (1.a).

Giroux-Alphonse-Daguerreotype.jpg.1 

(1.a) 

Inner workings of a camera.

The key features of a film camera are:

  • A plastic or metal case that is completely light-tight to protect the film.

 

  • An aperture - a small circular hole in the case that lets in light for the short period when you want to take a photo.

 

  • shutter mechanism - a spring-loaded set of overlapping blades that open to let light in through the aperture for a precise amount of time before closing up again.

 

  • One or more lenses in front of the shutter. First, they scale down the large, incoming image of the world so it fits into a much smaller area of film. The lenses concentrate the incoming light energy so the image forms on the film more quickly and the camera can be used in darker conditions than would otherwise be the case. They then bring the light rays into a sharp focus exactly on the surface of the film, so you get a clear, sharp, image rather than one that is blurred. They also minimise the distance between the aperture and the film so cameras can be made relatively small and portable. When you adjust the focus on a camera, you're actually moving one or more of the lenses back and forth (closer to or further from the object and the film) to make different parts of a scene appear sharper on the film, according to whether you want to emphasise  near or distant objects in your photograph.

 

  • A roll or piece of film (on the back wall of the camera directly opposite the shutter).

 

My idea does not involve me building my own camera, but I thought that the knowledge of how one works would be beneficial to know for the ways I will be showcasing my acetate slides. 

(1.b) 

 

 

Camera Obscura.

What is Camera Obscura?

A darkened box with a convex lens or aperture for projecting the image of an external object on to a screen inside, a forerunner of the modern camera / A small round building with a rotating angled mirror at the apex of the roof, projecting an image of the landscape on to a horizontal surface inside.  (1.c).

 

Illustration-principle-camera-obscura-1671.jpg

 Image 3. 

 For centuries the Camera Obscura was mainly used for viewing eclipses of the Sun without the risk of eye damage and by the 16th century, for drawing. The subject that was being drawn was placed outside and the image reflected for the artist to trace on paper. Different models of these boxes were made and the image itself was reflected by an angled mirror so that it could be viewed right side up. (1.d).

 

 

 

 

 

Pinhole Cameras

What is a Pinhole Camera?

A pinhole lensless camera is a light-tight box with a very fine round hole in one end and film or photographic paper in the other. Light passes through the hole and an image is formed in the camera.

'Pinhole cameras have infinite depth of field. Everything from the closest object to the most distant object is in the same relative focus; objects at a far distance will be less sharp due to particles in the atmosphere.'

(1.e).

ph_gemma_frisus-m.gif

 (1.e)

 

 

My Own Pinhole Camera.

To make my pinhole camera, I used a step by step guide and template that I found on YouTube (Listed in Bibliography). The only downside is that I did not have any black card. And so I used the darkest card I had to hand and filled in areas in black sharpie in the hope that it will work the same.

97507089_322854605347638_5284752770040070144_n.jpg

97973081_245084679890189_9144314453578219520_n.jpg

100471472_294066988287624_2176594210482814976_n.jpg

 

Photo Development

For my chemical process, I followed the video that was the follow up to the 'How to make a Pinhole Camera'. For my process I decided to use Basil as I could not find any mint and I have used coffee before for other projects so I wanted to try something different. 

20200523_211027.jpg.1

100086175_550383232517932_3580677658733707264_n.jpg

 It took a while to dissolve the vitamin sweets as they were hard boiled so I had to melt them partially in the microwave with the water. I did have to use more than the 2 grams as the total amount of vitamin c was quite low per sweet so I ended up adding in the entire bag. I then added the baking soda and make the additional liquid and put them in flat dishes for the photo paper. I also had a dish of water to remove any of the products used.

20200523_213115.jpg

20200523_213711.jpg

 The Pinhole Camera did not work as well as I thought, but that might be due to the level of exposure of the paper or perhaps the build of the camera itself. Either way I did not want to end my experimentation of exposing images there. I remembered from when I did my art foundation course that we exposed photographic paper to light with objects on top and we developed photos from that. The only major difference from that experience to this is that I used proper chemicals when developing previously, but I still wanted to see if I could produce at least a similar effect.

 

 

Outcomes.

Even though these outcomes did not develop in the same way I had done it before, I am still impressed that I managed to develop at least some shapes with the tools and ingredients that I had to hand, and it has given me more insight on how early images were first developed.

20200523_223612.jpg

20200523_223622.jpg

20200523_223628.jpg

20200523_223638.jpg20200523_223646.jpg

Camera Designs

93157615_822207628270379_3725888836564156416_n.jpg.1

 

93166130_1455176721329273_6992239459768991744_n.jpg.1

 

93273203_2649549061956265_7297487617333919744_n.jpg.1

 

 

 

Louis Le Princes Camera

singlelenscamera1.jpg

Image 1. 

Louis Le Princes camera fits with descriptions of others at the time. Built with wood with brass fittings for the lens coverings. One difference with Le Prince's is that it stands on small legs unlike the other one shown on the left, this might be because since it was for moving pictures the locations that he was planning on filming might of been uneven or difficult for him to hold the camera itself, so by having the support via the legs he would’ve been able to produce a much clearer image. 

_83777999_first_film_010.jpg.1

Image 2.

The above image shows a replica of Louis Le Prince's original moving camera. It was helpful seeing it against a person as now I can see what it looks like to scale rather than a picture. Obviously I am not making my box to be an exact replica of his, but I want to stay true to the shape and some the mechanisms whilst making ones that fit in with my design ideas. 

 

 

New Camera Prototype.

For this prototype, I followed what I had done for the first mockup albeit with some slight changes. I had to cut some paneling away from what would become the door so it would open and shut more effectively. I also added in two latches instead of one as the fold of the cardboard was stronger. As my designs progress I will find a better way of keeping the door closed. 

93012773_857816704694833_3934678767464611840_n.jpg

93049687_888177991675126_7765289240396562432_n.jpg

Another feature I had to add to this prototype was a covering for the door seam as light would escape through the gap. And so I added in the covering to allow as little light as possible to escape. Again this is something I will have to make that will be more effective for the final design. Perhaps with it being made of a stronger material the seam will not be needed as the gap will be smaller but I will decide what is best nearer the time. 

93049722_2249546271844832_1138953008239869952_n.jpg

I used a much stronger torch for this design to see if the image would be displayed clearer, and so in the back I cut a circle to size for the torch head. The torch itself has two functions, with one being a strip of light as opposed to a single beam. And so I added a secondary hole for the light strip to see what would be most effective.  

93913284_160426941978396_825828129762181120_n.jpg

For the torch beam I made a box in which the torch would sit so no light would escape. The box that I made was not an exact fit as the torch did not pull out all the way, but it was enough that I was happy to proceed with the idea. 

93608006_246853503171999_5286808354272837632_n.jpg

 

 

 

Outcomes From New Prototype.

Whilst the overall image was bigger,  the torch itself left a bright circle of light in the middle of the image making it harder to see overall. When I angled the light downwards the image was clearer but I thought that it would be practical for myself if I had to compensate for the torch. Also the angle of the torch still diminished the overall quality of the image. So I will have to figure out how I can use the light in a more effective way. 

94134361_2936773309713446_4328636687094644736_n.jpg

93702224_598505124077123_5877401451650613248_n.jpg

94036007_283834192611448_7693597023521472512_n.jpg

 

Inverted Outcomes.

The video that I had used as a guide also recommended that I invert the images to make the objects stand out more, I would say that this worked better for a few of the images, especially the last outcome which was the pen as it was just one singular item as opposed to multiple on one page.

20200523_223612.png

20200523_223622.png

20200523_223628.png

20200523_223638.png

99000483_4493039500722122_5750184842465640448_n.png

 20200523_223646.png